Beautiful Busuanga, A Paradise Unveiled

Imagine a place where pristine beaches and small private islets beckon to you to come laze in the sand. Imagine a place where clear lakes mirror the azure sky above, and where colorful corals teem with life beneath the crystal-clear waters. Imagine a place where wild animals from far-away Africa roam, in a small islet that has been declared a magical wildlife sanctuary. Imagine a place ghosted by the remains of a fleet of Japanese warships sunk by US planes during the great war in 1944. Indeed, there is so much to see, so much to learn, so much to experience and explore. This is Busuanga, a paradise that is not just a dream, but a real Shangrila waiting to be discovered.

Busuanga is a tropical island that promises an unforgettable experience of natural beauty and historic intrigue. Located at the northern tip of Palawan, Busuanga’s allure lies primarily in its distance and remoteness; its isolation from the rest of the country – a boon that has allowed it to progress at a slower, more leisurely pace. The island of Busuanga is home to 2 small towns in northern Palawan: the town of Busuanga itself to the north, and Coron, to the south. Coron is the more famous tourist destination, with its bustling port, its proximity to touristy ‘instagrammable’ sights in Coron Island (located south of the town), and its many budget-friendly hotels, inns and Airbnb-style vacation rentals dotting the town center. Coron is a backpackers’ haven, where the young crowd love to mingle and party till they drop. Busuanga is more distant, more mysterious and more quiet. It is home to numerous high-end resorts far from the maddening crowd. Busuanga is a haven for those who seek tranquility and solace in the midst of nature’s gift to man, a stark contrast to the party place called Coron. And having learned from the experience of the chaos and unregulated expansion of Coron, Busuanga’s development is more intentional, better planned and more attuned to mother nature.

On the invitation of our friend Ruel Nacachi, my wife and I travelled to Busuanga for a brief respite last month. Wit and I had been to the island a number of times before, but as our plane descended, the sight of the lush greenery and the sparkling coastline still took my breath away. Thoughts of the uninhabited island in the movie, Jurassic Park, briefly entered my mind. The warm summer breeze welcomed us as we stepped out onto the tarmac, eager to begin a new adventure. There we met up with our friends Gerry Amante and his charming wife, Lyn.

We were then driven through a picturesque winding road to our destination, the Busuanga Bay Lodge (BBL), a spectacular 5-star hotel overlooking the calm, clear waters of the bay. There we linked up with our host, Ruel, and another good friend, Andrea Gimenez. But, as it turned out, we were not staying in BBL for the first part of our sabbatical. Instead we were crossing the bay via speedboat to another even more private dreamland just right across the waters, the Pearl Bay Villas.

The Pearl Bay is owned by an amiable British retiree, Peter Kay. Peter is married to a Filipina, and they had decided to build a vacation home in Busuanga. But after frequenting the bay, and having enjoyed its serenity and beauty, Peter decided that it would be worth his while to build a resort on his property. What followed was the fruition of Peter’s dream, a wonderland that would be a perfect spot for some serious rest and recreation. At the Pearl Bay, Peter played the gracious host to us, regaling us with stories of Busuanga and more.

That night, we indulged in a sumptuous dinner spectacle at the Island Boy Resto in downtown Coron. Island Boy is owned by Ruel’s brother, Boy, and it is the place to go to if you’re nuts about seafood. We dropped by the place not just once, but three times during our entire 4-day stay there, which should tell you how addicting the native cuisine was. The succulent lobsters, the delectable crabs, the mouth-watering aroma of freshly-cooked sea delicacies; I could go on and on, but perhaps this video can articulate it much better.

The next day, waking up to the soft glow of the morning sun, Ruel took us to explore the nearby islands. First, we grabbed the unique opportunity to explore a piece of history hidden beneath the waves – a sunken Japanese ship from World War II. Let’s backtrack a bit for some military history on the war in the Pacific. During the Battle of Leyte Gulf when American forces landed in Leyte to retake the Philippines, many Japanese ships hid in the coves of Busuanga awaiting orders for a planned counterattack. Unfortunately for them, the locals tipped off the US Navy of their presence. Thus, on 24 September 1944, American bomber planes suddenly appeared on the horizon, and picked off the camouflaged Japanese ships one by one, including 2 big tankers. A total of 12 sunken wartime ships are scattered along the southern belly of the island, and it is said that the sea became so thickly- laden with oil from the tankers that it burned furiously, creating a bright inferno in the sea for several days and nights. This was how the island became known as the Wreck Dive Capital of the Philippines.

Years before, in October 2012 to be exact, I had taken my entire family to an unforgettable wreck dive adventure here in this island. (Please read: Shipwreck Dive in Coron. Just click on the title. ) This time however, we decided not to don scuba gears, and instead simply enjoy the sight of the Lusong sunken gunboat from the surface. As we glided on top of the rusted hull and tangled debris, I tried to imagine the battle and the gallant lives lost at sea. And I gave a short prayer, and a soldier’s salute to the Japanese sailors whose precious lives were snuffed out so tragically by that war.

Next, we went to explore some colorful coral formations nearby. Unfortunately, much the corals were damaged profusely by the destruction Super-Typhoon Yolanda brought to the island in 2013. Still, we allowed ourselves to drift with the slow current, and were greeted occasionally by a kaleidoscope of colors beneath the surface. Schools of tropical fish would dart effortlessly among vibrant coral reefs, their eye-catching colors glinting in the sunlight. We floated aimlessly, entranced by this underwater wonderland, losing track of time as we immersed ourselves in the captivating beauty of the island’s marine world.

And then we proceeded to Pass Island’s pristine beach for a sumptuous lunch. Gold and white sand stretched out before us, fringed by swaying coconut palms and dotted with colorful seashells. The calm, turquoise waters was just there for those who wanted a refreshing dip. And we lost ourselves in the friendly banter, the welcome breeze, and the warm embrace of the sea water.

The next days were marked with more adventure. We explored the Twin Lagoons where salt and fresh water meet. We snorkeled some more in the picturesque coral reefs that dotted the islets. We waded into the shallows and just basically allowed our urban stresses to melt away with each gentle wave. And we tried the only known salt water hot spring in the Philippines – the Maquinit Hot Spring. The soothing waters of the natural hot spring provided much-needed relief for my nagging frozen-shoulder condition. The therapeutic heat seemed to work its magic, easing stiffness and promoting better circulation. Indeed, it was an unforgettable experience blending rejuvenation, healing and tranquility.

For our final day, we transferred to the Busuanga Bay Lodge, another exquisite resort offering a mesmerizing sunrise, and a spectacular view of the glistening waters of the bay. It was great to laze in luxury under the shade of a warm sun. It was a great respite after the 3 wonderful days of exploring and learning.

Our visit to this beautiful tropical island has been nothing short of magical; a journey of discovery and wonder that has left an indelible mark in our hearts. From the pristine beaches, the breathtaking views, the underwater wonders, the history…. all these would make our trip truly fascinating. But with all the beauty that our eyes feasted on, the real gem was the company we were with; and the laughter, the wonderful shared memories, the noble dreams and creative ideas for Busuanga, and the genuine connections that made our trip truly unforgettable. Come to beautiful Busuanga, come to paradise!

(Wreckdive photos courtesy of starfish.ch, No Man Before, The Poor Traveler, AI was Here. Other photos courtesy of Wit and myself. For a closer look, just click on the pics.)